Exploring Occitanie with Margaux Friocourt: A Deep Dive into Food, Culture, and Sustainability
Photo Credit Christophe Grilhe
Interview with Arlene Stein
Margaux Friocourt is a Parisian visionary whose career is deeply rooted in the intersection of terroir, sustainability, and gastronomy. After eight transformative years in Berlin, where she founded Fish Klub—a trailblazing supplier of sustainable fish and seafood—Margaux has returned to France to embark on the next chapter of her journey. Now based by the Mediterranean Sea in the South of France, she is channeling her expertise into consulting for food and beverage initiatives that champion sustainability and celebrate local terroir. In addition, she is laying the groundwork to launch her artisanal ice cream brand, set to debut in early 2026.
Margaux’s expertise spans consulting, project management, brand identity, events, and communication, all dedicated to fostering sustainable and equitable food systems. Through her agency, Racines, she collaborates with partners in France and beyond to develop eco-conscious concepts that honor the environment and promote ethical practices.
Passionate about creating distinctive, values-driven brands, Margaux is committed to designing impactful, sustainable solutions that leave a lasting legacy for future generations.
She also acts as our Program Director and Curator for Terroir France Tour.
“Stepping off the beaten path allows travellers to change their habits and experience delightful surprises that they might not find elsewhere. It’s an opportunity to discover rich traditions, stunning landscapes, and incredible flavours, not to mention the splendid pink flamingos that inhabit the region’s wetlands. Whether you’re tasting exquisite wines, enjoying local seafood, or meeting passionate artisans, Occitanie promises unforgettable memories waiting to be discovered.”
Arlene: Margaux, you and I first connected when we both lived in Berlin, sharing a mutual passion for food and sustainability. You ran one of the most innovative seafood distribution companies in the city, focused on bringing fresh fish to the Berlin hospitality market. At the heart of this business were your relationships with inshore fishers. Can you tell us more about this venture and why it was important to you?
Margaux: When I moved to Berlin, I had a background in F&B operations from my time managing restaurants and five-star hotels. I wanted to stay connected to the industry while also engaging in food culture projects that educate the public about food systems. After two years, I launched ‘Oysterklub’ as a fun venture, but it quickly gained traction with chefs seeking high-quality oysters, which were scarce in the city at the time. This is how Fish Klub started. With my Breton heritage, I deeply appreciate authentic oysters and their flavours. This inspired me to bring the rich flavours of Brittany to Berlin. My relationships with inshore fishers were crucial, as they ensured that I sourced only the freshest and most sustainable seafood. Ultimately, my goal was to enhance Berlin's culinary landscape and foster a deeper appreciation for quality seafood among both chefs and diners. I also learned a lot about the biodiversity and seafood species.
Arlene: What impact do you think your work had on the local food scene and the fishing communities you worked with?
Margaux: My work with Fish Klub significantly impacted the local food scene by introducing high-quality, fresh and sustainable seafood to Berlin's restaurants, where previously, options were limited and often of poor quality. By sourcing directly from French inshore fishers, I helped elevate the standards of seafood served in the city, encouraging chefs to embrace better-quality ingredients and getting to know their suppliers and their environment. This improved dining experiences and sparked a broader conversation about sourcing practices and food quality.
Additionally, my emphasis on sustainability helped raise awareness among chefs and private diners about responsible seafood consumption, especially in a country like Germany where seafood is not a major thing. In forbidding farmed salmon sales, for example, I promoted practices that ensured the long-term health of fish populations and supported the livelihoods of local fishing communities. By working closely with these fishermen, I aimed to establish fair pricing that benefited them and encouraged their ancestor fishing practices, fostering a sense of collective responsibility for the marine ecosystem.
FishKlub was also a team of young people who got totally hooked by seafood; some of them are still passionate about it and launched their own projects.
Arlene: You’re from Paris, one of the world’s great gastronomic capitals. Do you think your cultural background influenced your deep connection to gastronomy?
Margaux: Growing up in Paris profoundly impacted my culinary perspective, as I was raised dining at restaurants most nights of the week (which is quite rare for a French family). My father worked a lot, and trying different restaurants in the city was the simplest way for us to get fed. Paris is a vibrant tapestry of flavours, techniques, and traditions, and at that time, many restaurants still embraced traditional, homemade cooking.
However, my family truly inspired my deep connection to gastronomy. Both my mother and grandmother were exceptional cooks, renowned for their ability to create delicious meals using local and sustainable ingredients from the fresh market. They instilled in me the belief that good food starts with quality ingredients, sourced responsibly, and with the passion that goes into making it.
Their love for cooking extended beyond mere nourishment; it was about celebrating the seasons and the richness of the land. We would spend hours at the table, enjoying meals and savouring wine together. This upbringing fostered my own commitment to sustainability and hospitality. Their influence has been pivotal in my journey, encouraging me to pursue a path that aligns with my values and continues to emphasize the importance of quality and sustainability in gastronomy, along with the joy of welcoming people around the table.
Arlene: How did you first find your way into the world of food and hospitality?
Margaux: My passion for ingredients and local food cultures has its roots in my childhood. Growing up, I developed a deep appreciation for the richness that comes from quality ingredients and the traditions behind them. This connection naturally led me to pursue a Bachelor's degree in hospitality management at Glion, one of the top schools in the world. I wanted to professionalize my skills in pursuit of excellence in the hospitality industry while continuing to evolve in an international environment. Growing up partly in Africa, I have always wanted to keep travelling the world.
Studying at Glion gave me the foundation I needed to embark on an international career in food and hospitality. My passion took me to diverse locations, including China, Spain, the USA, and Germany, where I gained invaluable experience and insights into different international culinary traditions and hospitality practices. This journey allowed me to merge my love for food with my work.
Arlene: You relocated to Sète and are now preparing to move to Arles this spring. This region is one of the lesser-known parts of Southern France. What draws you to this part of the country?
Margaux: I discovered Sète through my father, who took me there on vacation and later bought a house where I spent nearly half of my life. Sète is a lesser-known fishing port but is one of the most important in the Mediterranean for bluefin tuna fishing.
The Occitanie region resonates with me deeply; it is wild and natural, boasting stunning flora and fauna and providing beautiful spots to escape with my dog while remaining close to the sea. This area's cultural crossroads is crucial to my decision, as it welcomes people from all over the world for part of the year. I appreciate the rich and traditional gastronomy and the local terroir that defines the region.
Arlene: People often imagine a singular, national culinary identity when they think of French cuisine. But France is incredibly diverse in its regional food cultures. What makes the cuisine of Occitanie distinct? What are some of the dishes that define the region?
Margaux: The cuisine of Occitanie is wonderfully diverse, encompassing an array of specialties from both land and sea. The region is famous for its fabulous fish and oysters, which are enjoyed year-round in any region's market. One of my all-time favourite dishes is the inimitable tielle from Marco Cianni in Sète, a delicious seafood pie that captures the essence of the local flavors. I discovered the exceptional wines of Languedoc when I arrived in Sète in early 200’2, and I have never stopped enjoying them since. The region beautifully blends traditional farming practices with the innovation of new generations of winemakers, resulting in exquisite wines. Unfortunately, it took time for them to be recognized.
In the Camargue region, you'll find traditional specialties that revolve around bulls, reflecting a deep cultural heritage that has been passed down through generations. The annual festivals, or 'ferias,' celebrate this tradition and unite the community as spring arrives. Another highlight is the famous aioli, which brings together the finest summer vegetables served with a sauce that is both rich and subtle, embodying the joy of summer dining….
Arlene: Let’s talk about oysters—this area has a long history of oyster farming, a fact that many people may not be aware of. Can you share some insights about the oyster culture in this region?
Margaux: The Thau Lagoon, with its captivating play of lights, is a perpetual invitation to daydream. Spanning 7,500 hectares and extending 19 kilometres from Frontignan to Agde, it is the largest lagoon in the region. Fed by a watershed of 250 km² and seawater through the canals of Sète and the grau de Marseillan, it supports a rich biodiversity of flora and fauna, all under the watchful eyes of fishers and shellfish farmers.
In this unique ecosystem, oysters and mussels are cultivated using a Mediterranean-specific suspended farming technique, as the lagoon does not experience significant tidal phenomena like the Atlantic. Each farming table measures 50 meters long and 12 meters wide, constructed with metal rails in the sediment, with wooden or metal posts crossing over them. The flat oyster, Ostrea edulis, is the endemic species found here.
To recreate tidal conditions, the oysters are suspended on cords attached to wavy PVC plates. The oysters, grouped in threes every 10 centimetres and bonded with cement, are then hung under the farming tables in the Thau lagoon. To protect them from predators like dorade fish, farmers encircle each table with protective nets. This process typically begins in spring and lasts until summer, allowing the oysters to grow for up to three years, depending on the desired texture and flavour.
Arlene: On our upcoming Terroir trip to France, we’ll be visiting your friends who are tuna fishers. Can you tell us about their work and why tuna is such a significant part of the region’s seafood industry?
Margaux: In the region, tuna fishing is not just a tradition but a vital part of the seafood industry, particularly exemplified by Ligne Mer, a family-owned artisanal cannery highlighting the prized red tuna (Thunnus thynnus). Their fishing method is based on sustainable practices using longlining—a technique that involves a main line with many hooks and baits, carefully managed to respect the marine ecosystem. This fishing is conducted near Sète, ensuring that the tuna caught is both artisanal and eco-certified, adhering to strict regulations on quotas and fishing seasons.
Ligne Mer emphasizes quality through a meticulous selection of organic ingredients accompanying the tuna, guaranteeing a product that meets hygiene standards while promoting sustainability. Founded by Julie, a passionate culinary creator dedicated to crafting gourmet recipes, and Jordan, a skilled fisherman with a strong family heritage in the trade, the couple combines their expertise to bring the best of the sea to consumers. Since becoming France's first eco-labelled fishery for sustainable fishing practices in 2019, their commitment to preserving the environment and the well-being of fishermen has made them a beacon of responsible seafood production. Their focus on craftsmanship and respect for the ocean showcases the significance of tuna in the local culture and economy, making it a beloved staple in both the culinary and fishing communities.
Arlene: Of course, we can’t talk about Occitanie without discussing wine. What excites you about the wines of Languedoc?`
Margaux: The wines of Languedoc are fascinating to me because they embody a perfect blend of tradition and innovation while remaining affordable and flavorful. This region has a rich heritage of using natural methods that have been preserved for decades passed down through generations of winemakers. The younger generation is now bringing fresh ideas while respecting the time-honoured practices that define the region’s unique character.
Languedoc is the largest wine-producing region in France by volume. This speaks to its significance in the French wine landscape, even though it took time for these wines to gain acceptance on tables and appear on restaurant menus. The wines of Languedoc were often relegated to being considered humble country table wines.
Among its remarkable grape varieties, Carignan, Muscat, and Grenache stand out for me. Carignan offers depth and character to the blends, Muscat brings a fragrant, fresh, and aromatic profile that pairs beautifully with a tielle for example, and Grenache adds richness and fruitiness. I also always enjoy the tense—and underrated—Pic Saint Loup - with my oysters and fish. I have discovered some gems lately!
The diversity of these grapes allows for a wide range of wine styles and drinker profiles, from vibrant reds to refreshing whites and delightful dessert wines. This combination of tradition, innovation, and diverse terroir makes the wines of Languedoc incredibly compelling and full of potential to captivate wine lovers around the world, especially attracting those who wish to explore labels they may not know as well.
Arlene: Finally, for those who haven’t yet explored this part of France—why do you think Occitanie is a destination worth visiting?
Margaux: For all the reasons mentioned above, there is no longer any reason not to come and explore the beautiful surroundings of Occitanie. Stepping off the beaten path allows travellers to change their habits and experience delightful surprises that they might not find elsewhere. It’s an opportunity to discover rich traditions, stunning landscapes, and incredible flavours, not to mention the splendid pink flamingos that inhabit the region's wetlands.
It's essential to remain curious and never stop exploring this area's wonderful experiences. Whether you’re tasting exquisite wines, enjoying local seafood, or meeting passionate artisans, Occitanie promises unforgettable memories waiting to be discovered.
If you’d like to join us in France - get more information - Occitanie Tour of Southern France.
