Eden Hagos on Black Foodie, Representation & The Future of African Cuisine
by Arlene Stein
Eden Hagos, founder of Black Foodie, shares her journey in food culture. Growing up in a tight-knit Ethiopian family in Windsor, Canada, she remained connected to her heritage through food. A negative experience at a Toronto restaurant led her to question why Black-owned spaces weren’t prioritized for celebrations, inspiring her to create spaces that spotlight African and Caribbean cuisine - online, through events and advocacy.
She discusses challenges surrounding DEIA pushback, the muted conversations during Black History Month, and how media representation can shift perceptions of Black cuisine. Eden reflects on the significance of Black food spaces, and the growing African food renaissance in Washington, D.C. Looking ahead, she is working on a cookbook and seeks to expand in-person experiences and media projects.
"This interview has been edited for clarity, conciseness, and grammar while preserving the original intent and meaning."
“Black history is Canadian history, American history, and world history. ”
Arlene: This interview is in honor of Black History Month and the work you've done with Black Foodie. You're a celebrated host, food writer, and entrepreneur, leading the way in African and Caribbean food storytelling. As the founder of Black Foodie, you've built a platform that explores the intersection of identity and food.
I've watched you grow into a successful entrepreneur in the food industry. However, as I understand it, your career didn't initially begin in the culinary world, though you were always deeply connected to your culture. What did you aspire to be as a young woman?
Eden: I wanted to work in higher education. I applied to a master’s program in the U.S., convinced I was going to pursue it and then work at a college or university, helping students of colour. I got accepted into the program, but during that time, I discovered other passions, and I realized that higher education might not be the right path for me after all.
Arlene: Your parents ran an Ethiopian restaurant in Windsor, Ontario, which is a border city with Detroit. How did your family end up there?
Eden: My dad moved to Windsor around 1988, just a few years before I was born. At the time, there was a war between Eritrea and Ethiopia—and many people, including my parents, had to flee.
Arlene: A trait that I admire about immigrants, particularly those who flee conflict, is their resourcefulness. Your parents immigrated to Canada, brought much of your family over and opened one of the first Ethiopian restaurants in Windsor. What was that experience like for them?
Eden: It was amazing because they created a gathering space for the Ethiopian community and introduced Ethiopian food to Windsor and Detroit.
For many Ethiopian and Eritrean immigrants, the restaurant became a cultural hub. It was a place where people connected—my aunt met her husband there!
However, managing the business side was difficult, and after a few years, they sold it. It’s still open today, run by another Ethiopian family, which I’m grateful for. My uncle, who was a key figure in the restaurant and sadly passed away, was passionate about helping new immigrants. He gave many Ethiopians their first jobs in Canada. To this day, the restaurant still has a picture of him—it’s a testament to the mark he left on the city.
Arlene: It sounds like that experience shaped your understanding of restaurants as more than just places to eat—would you say that influenced your career path?
Eden: Absolutely. Restaurants are more than just a place to have a meal—they are community centers, a third space for people, and a piece of home for immigrants.
For many of my peers, Ethiopian food represents a connection to their roots. Some don’t know how to cook traditional dishes, but they can still experience them at Ethiopian restaurants and introduce their friends to their culture. To me, restaurants will always be more than just food—they are spaces for community and belonging.
Arlene: You had a transformative moment at a restaurant in Toronto that ultimately led you to your career in advocating for Black food culture. It also set you on a mission to bring global attention to what Black food culture truly means. Can you share a little about that moment and how it shaped your path?
Eden: I went to an Italian restaurant for my birthday, and I felt like the staff treated us differently because we were Black. It was upsetting and unfair. But what struck me even more was realizing that I hadn't even considered celebrating at an African or Black-owned restaurant. The idea never crossed my mind, and that bothered me.
I felt like we were experiencing discrimination and it was a pivotal moment. It made me question why I wasn’t prioritizing Black-owned spaces for celebrations. It became less about that individual experience and more about asking, "Why not us? Why don’t we celebrate our own spaces?"
When I wrote about my experience, I started to see the stereotypes and assumptions people have about Black diners and Black food in general. It was disheartening, but it also fueled my desire to challenge these perceptions. Why is there hesitation in celebrating our own restaurants? Why aren’t we as proud of our food as we should be? That moment sparked a shift in my thinking—moving away from frustration with one restaurant and instead focusing on how we can uplift and support our own culinary spaces.
Arlene: I love this quote from you in a previous interview where you said, "I’d like to see people challenge their assumptions that Black food has to stay at a certain price point in a specific environment, as though the ingredients and techniques aren’t worth experiencing at a higher level." Many non-European foods are labelled as "ethnic," even though, technically, all food is ethnic. How do we shift this narrative and behaviour? You’re doing this through Black Foodie, but how do we continue changing perceptions?
Eden: The media plays a huge role in this. Representation matters. People need to see African food in different formats—fine dining, fast-casual, and reimagined in new ways.
There’s a restaurant here in Washington, D.C. called Dogon, owned by award-winning chef Kwame Onwuachi. He has Ethiopian dishes on his menu, and though they’re presented in a contemporary way, the flavours are distinctly Ethiopian. He incorporates West African influences as well.
I love that you can have a luxurious, high-end African meal at his restaurant, where the experience might cost a couple of hundred dollars, or you can also drive ten minutes and enjoy an incredible, traditional Ethiopian meal in a more casual setting. That range is what I want people to see.
Arlene: Why do you think it’s so essential for the Black community to have a deep connection between food, traditions, and cultural identity?
Eden: Food connects us—it ties the Black diaspora together. We are incredibly diverse, but when you look at our foods, you see so many shared elements. That connection is powerful, especially in today’s challenging political climate.
Food is also a form of resistance. Many dishes are tied to historical struggles, survival, and victories. Understanding this instills pride. Beyond that, food represents opportunity.
Right now, so many new restaurants, food businesses, and entrepreneurs are reclaiming and innovating within our food culture. There’s an enormous amount of potential in the culinary space for Black entrepreneurs, and I think we’re just getting started.
Arlene: Speaking of challenges, you're currently in the U.S., where one of the most significant discussions revolves around Trump and corporate America dismantling DEIA (Diversity, Equity, Inclusion, and Accessibility). We're in the middle of Black History Month, yet the conversations around it seem muted. Do you think Black History Month is still relevant, and who does it serve?
Eden: I think Black History Month is always relevant because there needs to be a continued acknowledgment, particularly in the West, of the contributions Black people have made to society. Black history is Canadian history, American history, and world history. However, what we're witnessing now feels like a regression. After 2020, there was a surge in recognition and initiatives, but now it seems like there’s almost a backlash, a punishment for the progress that was made. And it’s really disheartening to see.
It feels like DEI has become a coded term for Black, and now there’s an effort to strip it away. Corporations, governments, and even voting trends reflect this shift—often against the very interests of the people making these decisions.
So yes, Black History Month is still relevant, but we don’t need institutional validation to celebrate it. Those who understand its importance will continue to honour it and tell our stories, regardless of whether it’s February or not.
Arlene: As a prominent voice in Black food culture, do you ever feel the weight of expectations to represent the entire community? How do you navigate the balance between personal storytelling and broader cultural advocacy?
Eden: I do feel the weight of responsibility to do things well. Because sometimes, what I present—a dish, a restaurant—might be someone’s first exposure to African cuisine. But I don’t feel like I represent everyone. There are so many different voices in Black food, especially in the U.S. I try to share a global perspective while focusing on what I know best—East African food. There are incredible people doing amazing work in Southern and West African cuisines, and my goal is to amplify and celebrate what they’re doing rather than try to speak for everyone.
Arlene: You refer to yourself as Canadian first. Do you proudly identify as Canadian, and has that perspective evolved over time?
Eden: Yes, I am proudly Canadian. I feel incredibly fortunate to have been born in Canada and to have had the opportunities and the strong community that shaped me. I still have active partnerships in Canada, and I’m excited to return to Toronto to host events and reconnect with the food scene there.
Arlene: What does the future hold for you? What’s your vision for the next five years?
Eden: Right now, I’m working on a cookbook, which I’m really excited about. It will capture the lessons, recipes, and inspiration I’ve gathered over the past ten years with Black Foodie.
I’ve spent so much time building an online presence, but I want to create something physical—something people can hold and take with them. Beyond that, I’m craving more in-person experiences. Over the next five years, I want to focus on bringing people together through food, hosting more events, and hopefully expanding into larger media projects.
QUICK FIRE
Arlene: What’s your favorite Ethiopian dish?
Eden: Doro Wat, a delicious chicken stew.
Arlene: Have you mastered injera yet?
Eden: Not yet, but I’m still trying!
Arlene: What does your mother think?
Eden: She’s just happy that I’m trying!
Arlene: What’s your favourite type of food to cook?
Eden: Hands down, Jamaican food. I absolutely love it.
Arlene: What’s your favorite Jamaican dish?
Eden: Brown stew chicken.
Arlene: I’m more of a jerk chicken girl :-) Who would be your ultimate dinner guest?
Eden: Issa Rae. She’s not only an incredible actress and producer, but she’s also a food entrepreneur. She owns restaurants and cafés in Los Angeles and even has a wine brand. I admire how she’s entered so many different spaces while staying passionate about them all.
Oh, and someone funny—I need someone at the table who can keep us laughing!
Arlene: Thank you so much for your time. It’s always a pleasure chatting with you.
Eden: Thank you for having me! I’m so happy to still be part of the Terroir community.