Terroir Croatia: A Journey Through Taste and Tradition
Text Renee Lalonde, Photo Credit Richard Gruica
This fall we embarked on a unique culinary journey with a group of travellers hungry for cultural exploration and delicious local cuisine. The journey was about discovery of new places, vistas, food, history and most enjoyably, the community, our own and the people we met along the way. There were 12 of us from all over the world with one mission: to be open to the surprises of Istria Croatia.
Day 1: The Heartbeat of Rovinj
As the morning light spilled into our beautiful hotel we were delighted by the incredible view of the city of Rovinj just across the ocean. We walked 15 minutes into town, and along the cobblestone streets, I felt an immediate sense of wonder. The city’s charm is undeniable, with its pastel-coloured buildings stacked along the Adriatic’s edge and the faint scent of sea salt in the air. Our group wandered leisurely through the narrow alleys, eventually arriving at the bustling farmers’ market. Here, stalls overflowed with vibrant seasonal produce, jars of golden honey, and seafood so fresh it seemed to pulse with life.
I picked up a handful of figs, their sweetness balanced by a gentle tartness, and admired the local artisans selling handmade cheeses and olive oils. This was more than a market; it celebrated Istria’s abundance.
Later that day, we journeyed to Stara Škola, a historic building turned winery and restaurant, where we indulged in our first official feast. Chef Priska Thuring created dishes that felt like an edible love letter to the region: porcini mushrooms paired with creamy kohlrabi, roasted chestnuts with pumpkin, and shiitake nestled beside tender turnips. Each bite carried the unmistakable imprint of Istria’s terroir, perfectly complemented by Clai’s organic wines.
It was the kind of meal that stays with you—not just in memory, but in how it awakens your senses to a place.
Day 2: A Treasure Hunt in Truffle Country
Truffle hunting is not for the impatient! Our guide from Prodan Tartufi led us into the quiet embrace of Istria’s oak forests, accompanied by a loyal truffle dog with an uncanny nose for hidden gems. The air was cool and earthy, carrying whispers of centuries-old secrets. We found just one truffle that morning, but the experience was about more than the hunt. It was a glimpse into a family tradition passed down through generations, steeped in a deep respect for the land.
The true reward, however, came later—a decadent truffle feast. Creamy scrambled eggs infused with the rich aroma of truffles and topped off with piles of the shaved delicacy. We also had delicate Fuži pasta laced with both black and rare white varieties and glasses of crisp Malvazija wine. Each dish was a reminder of the rare treasures hidden beneath the soil of this region. That night, as I reflected on the day, I realized that truffle hunting isn’t about certainty. It’s about savouring the unpredictable and appreciating the gifts nature chooses to share.
Day 3: From Sea to Plate
The Lim Fjord greeted us with shimmering waters and the promise of another gastronomic adventure. At Tony’s Oyster Shack, we began the morning with an unconventional breakfast: Croatian flat oysters, briny and fresh, paired with clams harvested just hours earlier. Emil, the owner, spoke passionately about his craft, and as I savoured each oyster, I felt a deep connection to the sea that nurtured them.
A leisurely boat ride followed, taking us past the rugged cliffs and hidden coves of the Kamenjak National Park. The Adriatic sparkled under the midday sun, its beauty unparalleled. By evening, we found ourselves at Konoba Batelina, a Michelin Bib Gourmand restaurant celebrated for its seafood. Course after course arrived: delicate tuna carpaccio, sweet scampi, and risottos brimming with the ocean’s essence. Each dish told a story of Istria’s maritime heritage, and by the end of the night, I was full—not just in the belly but in spirit as well.
Day 4: The Essence of Istria
Istrian cuisine is inseparable from its traditions, and today we experienced one of the most iconic: Peka. At Alla Beccaccia, a Bib Gourmand restaurant, we gathered around a hearth where veal and root vegetables cooked slowly in a huge pan atop a heated stone slab and under a flat top lid with red hot embers piled upon it. The result? Tender, flavorful perfection, steeped in its own juices and kissed by the smoky aroma of the fire.
The day’s journey continued with a visit to Chiavalon, one of Istria’s premier olive oil producers. During a guided tasting, We learned to appreciate the nuanced flavours of their oils—peppery, grassy, and robust—each bottle a testament to the region’s dedication to quality. I bought a small bottle of spicy finishing oil made especially for dribbling onto grilled steak (or any meat, really).
We ended the day in Pula, where the Roman Amphitheater stood as a testament to Istria’s rich history. As I stood within its ancient walls, I couldn’t help but marvel at the continuity of this land, where past and present exist in harmonious dialogue.
Day 5: A Farewell to Remember
Our final day took us to Kumparička Organic Goat Farm, which felt like stepping into a pastoral dream. Nearly 300 goats roamed the lush, green pastures, with their milk transformed into some of the finest cheeses ever tasted. The farm’s commitment to biodynamic practices was inspiring, a reminder that living in harmony with nature is not just possible but essential.
The afternoon was spent sampling wines from natural winemaker Bruno Trapan, whose creations are as bold and vibrant as the land itself. With each sip, a deeper connection to Istria—a place where every drop of milk, every vine of grapes, and every grain of soil tells a story.
As the sun set on our journey, I reflected on the week. This wasn’t just a trip; it was an invitation to immerse oneself in a culture that values tradition, sustainability, and the beauty of simple pleasures. Croatia’s terroir is more than its land; it’s the people who love it, the flavours that arise from it, and the memories we bring home.
If you’re ready to embark on a journey that nourishes both body and soul, Terroir Croatia and other delicious destinations await you. Join us next time, and discover the magic for yourself.