Every week we share a meal from someone close to the Terroir community which represents their work, passions and a personal connection to their terroir.
CELERY, APPLE & YOUNG BUCK
Kerry, Daniel & Neil, Founders of Barra, Berlin
“A well made salad is all too often overlooked. Although this celery salad is very straightforward, it is carefully constructed to ensure that each bite offers something exciting. It is fresh, crunchy, chewy, acidic and it sums up what we do here at Barra - the simple things done well.”
100g celery, chopped
30g Young Buck cheese (or another crumbly blue cheese)
30g Granny Smith, diced
3g mint, chopped
15g hazelnuts, roasted and halved
15g golden rasins
For the dressing:
1l apple juice
500g olive oil
To make the dressing, pour the verjus and apple juice into a pot and reduce by half. Season with salt and lemon juice if needed then mix with the olive oil. Leave to one side.
In a mixing bowl add the celery, mint, golden raisins, hazelnuts, apple and crumbled Young Buck. Add a pinch of salt and enough of the dressing to coat all of the ingredients well. Toss the salad in the bowl but be careful not to break down the Young Buck - a blue cheese vinaigrette is not what we’re looking for here!
Place the salad in a serving bowl and pour over any excess vinaigrette. Add a few twists of cracked black pepper and some fresh picked mint leaves.
Amanda Cohen, Head Chef at Dirt Candy, New York
This dish says everything there is to say about Dirt Candy all on one plate. We're in Chinatown, hence Sichuan mint oil; it's focused on a lot of different kinds of the same vegetable (there’s white soy marinated hothouse cucumbers, k-cukes, Persian cucumbers, cucumber & kaffir lime cream, Sichuan mint oil and cucumber cake!); we often get accused on being too fancy so it's deceptively simple; and the cucumbers are cut into doughnut shapes for no good reason except they look more fun that way. International influences, all about the vegetables and pointlessly fun - that's Dirt Candy in a nutshell.”
For the kaffir lime and cucumber cream:
90g cucumber juice
5g kaffir lime leaves
1lb cream cheese
Blend the cucumber juice with the kaffir lime leaves and strain
Whip everything together until smooth
For the Sichuan mint oil:
2 cups canola oil
22g Thai chilli peppers
5g Sichuan peppercorns
50g blanched mint
20g blanched parsley
Heat the oil until it reaches 325°F
Pour over the Thai chilli peppers and the peppercorns
Let cool and then strain
Blend the strained oil with the mint and parsley and strain again
For the white soy marinade:
1 cup white soy sauce
1 tsp ginger
1 tsp garlic
1/4 tsp salt
1 tsp sesame oil
Whisk everything together
For the cucumber cake
113g unsalted butter
120g canola oil
390g all-purpose flour
1 tbsp baking powder
1/2 tsp salt
300g cucumber juice
Cream the butter, oil and sugar
Add eggs, 1 at a time
Mix in the flour, baking powder and salt in 3 parts
Slowly add cucumber juice
Spread onto a tray
Bake at 325°F for 8 minutes
When cool, cut into rings
2 Persian cucumbers
1 hothouse cucumber (also known as greenhouse cucumber)
Toasted sesame seeds
Cut all the cucumbers into rings
Toss in the soy marinade
Smear some of your kaffir leaf and cucumber cream onto the bottom of a plate
Stand the marinated cucumbers up in the cream
Stand a few pieces of the cake alongside
Add some of the Sichuan mint oil
Sprinkle with salt and toasted sesame seeds
Barry Serrao, Executive Chef at Paintbox Bistro, Toronto
Were you at this year’s Terroir Symposium? If so you may have eaten Barry Serrao’s Garbage Poutine as part of the Trashed at Terroir lunch programme which saw rescued foods refashioned into tasty new meals.
This dish is riff on Canada’s classic poutine with different serving suggestions. “I know calling this Poutine is a stretch” Barry says, “but every time I garnish with fried potatoes I feel I owe the Quebecois credit and in my opinion, if you don’t impose the sauce or garnish on people you can’t call it a poutine!”
5-6 potatoes of your choice
2 cups chopped kale stems (approx. from 1 bunch of kale)
1 tbsp finely diced shallot
Zest & juice from 1 lime
1/2 orange, juiced
1/2 tsp minced garlic
2 tbsp toasted sunflower seeds
1/4 cup vegetable oil
1 tbsp each of chopped parsley, mint & cilantro
For the potatoes:
Wash the potatoes and then peel the skin into strips. Soak the peels in cold water for at least 30 minutes.
For the kale pesto:
Prepare the pesto while the peels are soaking. Roughly chop the kale stems before adding to a food processor. Pulse until the stems are well broken down - excessive processing time could alter the flavor and texture of the other ingredients. Once the kale has reach a fine consistency add the rest of the pesto ingredients and process for another 30 seconds to a minute, being very careful not to heat up the pesto. If you do this in a blender you’ll acheive a smoother texture.
Let the pesto rest for a few minutes to allow all the flavors to come together whilst you fry the potatoes…
Frying the potato skins:
Drain and dry the potato peels well. Heat a pan over medium/high heat and add oil. Wait until oil reaches 325°F before adding peels. Add a small handful of the peels to the pan and fry until the bubbles are almost gone - be careful this happen quickly and the peels will turn from golden to dark brown. Remove from pan with a slotted spoon and put on a paper towel, salt immediately.
Leave to stand for few minutes (if you can resist!)
Cover the skins in the pesto and add other optional garnishes such as thinly sliced radishes and any tiny baby kale leaves from the centre of the bunch.
Houmus and Anatolian Landscapes
Maksut Askar, Head Chef at neolokal, Istanbul
“I was born in Iskenderun, named after Alexander the Great and close to the city of Antakya. With the many border fluctuations of the area, Antakya has been part of Turkey since 1939 but prior to that it was actually part of Syria and the city of Aleppo. My family has lived in this territory for generations and it was through the borders of the Ottoman Empire that the area became a harbour on the Spice Route, bringing a great many influences to the cuisine of the territory. Eating, and talking about eating, was the daily routine.
‘Houmus and Anatolian Landscapes’ is dish which greatly reflects my childhood and the rich, colourful terroir I was born into. There are still houmus shops in my home town and although the sunny side-up quails egg I chose to serve the dish with represents the sun, it also pays homage to the houmus masters who cook houmus with eggs every single day.”
Makes around 30 portions of houmous
1kg boiled chickpeas
230g double roasted tahini
70ml lemon juice
2g black pepper
2 cloves of garlic
220g extra virgin olive oil
450ml vegetable stock
To garnish: chives, curly parsley and dill
Put all the ingredients in a thermomix and puree for 10 minutes at a high speed. Leave to cool down on a tray covered with cling film.
When ready to serve put approx 55g of houmous on the plate, garnish with the chive, curly parsley and dill and serve with sides of your choice. At the restaurant we serve it with a poached quail egg and a range of spices including: beetroot, turmeric, cumin, mint, tarragon, dried ceps, red cabbage, peas, parsley and coriander.
Ahi Bloodline ‘Latke’ created for the ‘Trashed at Terroir’ rescued foods lunch
Kiki Aranita, Poi Dog Philly, USA
“I own a Hawaiian-ish restaurant that serves a lot of ahi poke (we break down loins in-house and so have an excess of bloodline) and Abbe is the sales and marketing manager for all the restaurants at the Rittenhouse Hotel so she constantly sees perfectly good bread thrown away. This recipe's makes use of ahi bloodline tuna and bread which would otherwise be wasted and reflects mine and Abbe's efforts to save the things that are most commonly thrown away in our professions.
Yuzu is a common ingredient in my often Japanese-influenced cuisine and well, and Abbe is Jewish so this dish is a combination of the flavors that best represent us.”
Makes about 35-50 appetizer-sized ‘latkes”’
Tuna bloodline (as much as you have!)
½ cup tapioca starch
½ cup water
2 cups brioche breadcrumbs (day old brioche – cube and dry in low oven, then process)
Yuzu apple sauce:
1 Honeycrisp apple, diced
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon tapioca starch, dissolved in ½ cup water
½ cup yuzu juice
Yuzu apple sauce (see above)
Dry as much bloodline as you have available and use just 1 teaspoon for this recipe. It will keep in the refrigerator up to 2 weeks.
Cut bloodline into very small (about 1cm square) pieces, lay over silicone mat and bake in oven at 275 for 1 hour or until thoroughly dried (but not burnt!). Let cool.
Pulse dried bloodline in food processor until it turns to dust
Dissolve tapioca starch in ½ cup water
Mix all ingredients together (you might need another splash of water depending on how buttery your brioche is) until it forms a dough that has the consistency of donut dough
Form latke dough into small, 1.5-2 inch diameter patties (about ½ inch in thickness)
Deep fry in 375 degree oil until golden brown and crispy (3-5 min)
Soak up excess oil on paper towels and garnish with sour cream, yuzu apple sauce and chives
Yuzu apple sauce:
Cook diced apple, sugar, tapioca starch, yuzu juice in water for 5-8 min in a saucepan over medium heat.
Take off heat to cool naturally for about 10 min
Blend in Vitamix on high setting
Transfer to squeeze bottle and refrigerate under ready to garnish the latkes
Check out the full list of ‘Trashed at Terroir’ chefs here.
Charlotte’s Naughty nudi
Charlotte Horton, owner & winemaker, Castello di Potentino, Tuscany
"I love this dish as it is light and when the ricotta is at its sweetest in spring when you eat them, they make you feel like frisking and leaping in the grass like a little new born lamb. At Castello di Potentino we work very closely with the local cheesemakers and are currently using the wool from the flock to spin and weave into textiles. To me nudi represent the beauty of the virtuous circle in pastoral life where everything is used in a frugal but intelligent and pleasurable way.”
Gnudi (trans. naked ones) or Malfatti (badly made). In Gnudi the g is soft so ‘Nudi’.
These are essentially poached ricotta dumplings, known as ‘naked’ or ‘badly made’ as they do not have the pasta parcel that would make them into ravioli or tortelli. Lighter than gnocchi, they may be served with a toasted sage and olive oil infusion or other sauces of invention and choice. The most important ingredient is a sheep’s cheese ricotta which obviously is better the fresher and more home-made it is. The other vital factor is that the green leaf (spinach, chard, or stinging nettle or chicory) must be squeezed very dry after blanching and very finely chopped.
600g ricotta (use real sheep milk ricotta)
200g blanched green leaves (spinach, chard, or stinging nettle or chicory)
2 eggs and yolks
Flour for rolling
Sage leaves sauteed in oil – do not burn and leave to infuse with a melted knob of butter if you wish. Melt do not cook.
Salt & pepper to taste
You’ll need a big pot of boiling water - be generous with the water. Salt when boiling but the boil must not be too violent else the gnudi will break up.
Mix all ingredients in a bowl and form little balls. Roll in flour into lozenge shapes.
Put in gently boiling water one by one
Take out with a sieve spoon when they pop to the surface
Plate them and dress with the sage and oil infusion. You may put grated parmesan into the mix but I find that too rich and so have it at table if anyone wants a sprinkle on top of the Gnudi. Pecorino is better, and local.
Remove your clothes and eat naked
Celeriac and Blackcurrant Wood Oil
Micha Schäfer, head chef at Nobelhart und Schmutzig, Berlin
“This dish shows what March and April look like in Brandenburg in products. Celeriac is a very valuable vegetable for gardeners and has been saved since the harvest in November. The cream is just starting to become available again and the blackcurrent bushes are trimmed in spring meaning it’s one of the first products we get after a long winter.
The dish carries the scent of blackcurrant and takes your memories back to times when you picked the berries directly from the bush. It’s a dish that makes so much sense at this time, in this place. It tells the story of early spring.“
1 celeriac (from Domäne Dahlem)
50g double cream (from Erdhof Seewalde)
1l rapeseed oil (from Fläminger Genussland)
A handful of freshly chopped blackcurrant wood
Salt (from Saline Luisenhall)
To make the blackcurrant wood oil, cover the blackcurrant wood with rapeseed oil and leave to cook overnight at 70°C. Next, scrub the celeriac until clean and rub well with rapeseed oil and salt. Cook in the oven whole at 180°C for 1 hour and then finish at 210°C for a further 15 minutes. Once the celeriac is cooked, remove it from the oven and cut into eight pieces before covering them all with the blackcurrant wood oil and some salt. To serve, scoop the double cream onto a plate, add a piece of celeriac, and serve quickly.
Stinging Nettle Triangoli served with morels, asparagus & water buffalo ricotta
Albert Ponzo, executive chef at The Royal Hotel, Canada
“These ingredients are all found on our native (Canadian) soils and the techniques represent my experiences past and present.”
For the pasta:
4 tbsp. olive oil
4 cups flour
140 grams stinging nettle leaves
4 whole eggs
1 tsp. salt
For the filling:
1½ cups buffalo ricotta, drained
1 clove garlic, minced
200 grams stinging nettles leaves cleaned from stem
salt to taste
Putting it together (serves 4 people)
400 grams nettle triangoli
1 handful morels
8 spears asparagus
½ cup butter, cubed
1 shallot, finely diced
1 clove garlic, minced
¼ cup white wine
1 tbsp. parsley, torn
4 tbsp. grated parmesan
Making the pasta:
Wearing gloves, strip nettle leaves from their stalks.
Sauté the stinging nettle leaves in a hot pan with olive oil, lightly salt and cover. Cook for 5 minutes or until tender. If they appear too dry before they finish cooking, add a touch of water.
Once cooled, squeeze out excess water. Transfer to a blender with the eggs and purée until smooth.
Sift flour and salt onto the table in a mound and create a well in the middle. Add the egg/nettle purée. Starting with a fork, work the purée into the flour until amalgamated. Then begin kneading the dough until it is stiff. The pasta will look rough at first but will smooth out as it rests. If you find the pasta is not coming together, you can moisten your hands to help persuade the dough to become a ball. Cover with plastic wrap and let rest for at least 30 minutes. If resting longer, refrigerate dough.
Making the filling:
Repeat steps 1 and 2 from making the pasta section to prepare the nettle leaves.
Once cooled, squeeze out all the excess water from the nettles. Roughly chop them in 1 inch pieces.
In a clean bowl, mix together the drained ricotta, nettles, salt, egg, and garlic. Season with salt. Store in the fridge until ready to use.
Filling the triangoli:
Roll the pasta through a pasta sheeter until you reach the lowest setting. Cut 7cm. x 7cm. squares and place a small mound of filling in the centre of each square, leaving a 2cm. border. Egg wash the border and fold the square, corner to corner, gently sealing around the filling to let out any excess air.
Dust the completed triangoli with flour and place on trays between parchment.
Serving it up:
Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil
Clean morels thoroughly by soaking in cold water. Drain and cut into ½ inch rings.
Quickly blanch the asparagus in the boiling, salted water for 1 minute or until barely cooked. Cut them into 1 inch pieces.
Boil the triangoli for 3-5 minutes until the pasta is al dente.
Meanwhile, in a large pan, melt the butter over medium-high heat, stirring constantly. Once the butter starts to brown, add the shallots, garlic, and morels. Add the white wine off the heat and stir quickly to ensure the wine doesn’t boil over. Once the bubbling subsides, return to the heat and add the asparagus.
Remove the triangoli from the cooking water with a spider or a slotted spoon, and add to the pan. Add some pasta water to make the sauce, as well as grated parmesan, parsley and test for seasoning.
Evenly divide the triangoli onto 4 plates or bowls.
Garnish the plate with more parmesan and any spring edibles you may have foraged. You can substitute the garlic for young green garlic, or the shallots for wild leeks. Serve and enjoy.
This recipe is currently also printed in Watershed Magazine.
Rustic Picnic Bread
Helen Underwood, founder of White Cottage Baking School, England
“My family’s old farm lies no more than a few miles from where my bakery and baking school now sits and it’s no accident - the land, the tilled fields, the skyline, the wild flowers, the plants growing in the lanes and roadsides all feel like home. My ever-changing picnic bread, using wonderful wheat and spelt which are grown in the fields that surround us here, is the perfect example of my terroir.
In the summer, this bread could be filled with garden herbs, oven-roasted tomatoes and peppers. In the autumn perhaps I’d fill it with caramelised garlic, rosemary and the very last of the wonderful local soft cheese. But in the spring I like to gather wild garlic in the weeks before it bursts into glorious flower - wild garlic season is over too soon, so I like to make the most of it.
Make this bread your own, according to the edible bounty nature offers all around you…”
For the dough:
375g stoneground white bread wheat flour
75g stoneground wholemeal flour, eg spelt
60g unrefreshed, 2-3 day old starter (optional)
8g fresh yeast (or 4g of dried yeast)
8g sea salt
For the filling:
100g extra mature, hard cheese, cubed (small)
Large handful wild herbs, eg wild garlic, coarsely chopped
2tbsp your favourite sweet chutney, eg gooseberry
Either hand knead or place your ingredients in the mixer and, using the dough hook, work the dough until you have a smooth, elastic strong dough (approximately 15 minutes by hand and 8 minutes by mixer). Just before the dough is ready, add the cubed cheese (maximum size 1 cubic cm), chopped herbs and chutney, and combine until your dough is elastic once more.
Shape your dough into a ball and leave to prove, covered with a linen cloth for about 1 hour (up to 1 1/2 hours if the ambient temperature of your kitchen is quite cool). After an hour, tip out onto a lightly floured surface. Degas by pressing down with the flat of your hand, then roll your dough out into a rectangle approximately 40cm x 60cm. If you wish to add any other ingredients, such as pesto or tapenade, this is an ideal point to spread any additions out onto your dough. Now tightly roll up from the long edge of your dough, like a Swiss roll, so that you have one long roll of dough 60cm long. Do not worry if lumps of cheese protrude - they will add to the charm of your finished rustic loaf.
Bend the ends of your roll towards each other until you have a continuous loop and then press the ends together. Place carefully on a tray, with the seam underneath and cover. Leave to prove, covered with a linen cloth for approximately 1 1/2 hours (longer in a cooler kitchen). Alternatively, leave to prove for one hour, then place in the fridge overnight, ready to bake in the morning.
Preheat your oven to 240°C.
When your loaf is fully proved, cover with a little sprinkling of flour, then score a pattern on the top a sharp knife or lame. Place in the oven, lower the temperature to 220°C and bake for about 25 minutes. Your bread will be baked when the internal temperature reaches 95°C.
Leave to cool on wire rack.
Sophia Hoffmann, author of Zero Waste Küche, Germany
“Brotlinge is basically a hybrid between bread dumplings and beef patties. It’s also a play on words because in Germany, vegetarian or vegan patties are called Bratlinge - a very unsexy word! By making Brotlinge (translates to “breadlings”) I’m giving Bratlinge a new purpose and turning it into a zero waste dish made of leftovers.”
The main thing you’ll need for this dish is bits of old sourdough bread (or bread rolls) soaked in water until they’re soft again. Then, you just need to add whatever flavours and ingredients you have to had and want to use up. For mine I used:
fresh or dried herbs
minced capers or olives
Mix the ingredients all together in a bowl and if you have it, use some extra bits of bread to soak up any wetness. Make smaller individual patties out of the mixture.
Fry the patties in hot oil on both sides until crunchy on the outside.
Serve oven fries with a sweet mustard mango dip.
Fisherfolk Fish Pie
Jennifer Johnston, fisherfolk, Canada
“I have developed this dish to represent me and the people of fisherfolk because it’s the kind of hearty and traditional meal that would sustain and comfort us when coming home after a long, cold day on the water.
The potatoes, onions, cream and butter that form the base of the pie are all from Ontario where we live and work. The fish and seafood is a mixture of east and west coast bounties, these harmonize together to really highlight what Canada's best seafood tastes like.”
8 to 10 medium yellow-fleshed Ontario Potatoes
2 tablespoons of butter
Half cup of milk
8 British Columbia large spot prawns
8 oz of Lake Erie pickerel
6 oz of Nova Scotia cold-smoked haddock
8 oz of Nova Scotia haddock
2 celery stalks
1 cup of whipping cream
3 tablespoons of flour
1 cup of milk
1 tablespoon of thyme
1 teaspoon of nutmeg
5 whole peppercorns
4 bay leaves
Peel potatoes, cover with water and a sprinkle with salt, bring to a boil and then leave to simmer for 40-50 minutes until the potatoes are cooked through.
Cut the fish and seafood into 1 inch pieces. Place seafood in bowl and put to aside.
Dice the celery and one half of onion. Coarsely chop the other half of the onion.
Take large nonstick fry pan and place seafood and prawns in fry pan cover the whole surface. Turn burner on to simmer for a few minutes. Pour cup of milk over fish and place bay leaves and 5 peppercorns and coarsely chopped half onion in milk. Leave on simmer for approx 8 minutes (just enough so fish and prawns are beginning to turn opaque) Use a slotted spoon to gather all the fish out of pan and place in a bowl and set to the side.
Put fry pan with milk and fish juice to the side.
Get another pan and dot the pan with 1 tablespoon of butter and heat till just till bubbling and place diced celery and onion in pan. Add thyme and nutmeg. Fry for approx 8 minutes until onion and celery are just translucent but still crunchy. Move pan to the side and bring fish milk pan to the front. Take peppercorns and bay leafed out and discard.
In a cup place 1/3 a cup of cream and 3 tablespoons of flour and whip until smooth and continue whipping slowly adding the rest of the cup of cream making sure to avoid lumps. When the flour cream mixture is fully combined turn the fish milk juice to simmer and whisk slowly adding the flour cream to the mix until sauce is thickened. Then add the onion and celery and toss into sauce. Turn off heat.
Grab a colander and place potatoes in and drain. Use a ricer to put potatoes through and put back into pot and finish off with potato masher adding remaining butter and milk. Mash till you are satisfied with the fluffy peaks.
Now place all fish in 8 by 8 inch pan and pour sauce generously over fish and prawns .Grind fresh pepper over mixture and then evenly distribute mash potatoes over the fish.
Put in oven on 350 for 30 minutes.
Open oven and place a few pads of butter on mash potatoes and turn up to 400 to 450 to crisp up the top for 5 to 10 minute or until golden brown.
Turn off oven take pie out and let it sit for 10 and let the aroma travel through the house.
“No Need to Knead” Crusty Bread with Seeds
Voula Halliday, author of Eat at Home. Canada
“Bread is my sense of place, past and present.
I am a fresh loaf coming out of the communal oven in the agora of my ancestral village in Greece.
I am the yeasty dough pressed and rolled on the counter under my grandmother’s small strong hands.
I am the grains of wheat and spelt grown here in my country of birth.
I am the bread recipes I write.
I am this story of bread.”
Makes 1 loaf, 12 servings
1 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 1/2 cups whole-wheat, spelt, or red fife flour
1/2 cup raw unsalted sunflower seeds
1/2 cup raw unsalted pumpkin seeds
Generous 1/4 tsp active dry yeast
1 tsp salt
1 1/2 cups water
1 Tbsp cornmeal or semolina flour, to cover bottom of Dutch oven
Place everything except the cornmeal in a large bowl and stir together until well combined. It will be a sticky dough. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and a tea towel and set aside in a warm, draft-free spot for 18 to 24 hours, until the dough has risen, doubled in size, and looks bubbly in texture. Then:
Lightly dust your work surface with flour. Place dough on the flour. Lightly coat inside of the bowl with oil (no need to wipe it out first).
Fold dough in on itself a few times and then shape it into a nice round and put it back in the bowl. Dust dough with flour and then cover with a clean tea towel. Set aside to rise for another 2 hours or until doubled in size again.
Place a large empty Dutch oven or cast iron pan with a lid in the oven and set oven to 450°F (230°C). Heat the covered pan for about 20 minutes.
Carefully and quickly remove the hot pan from the oven and lift the lid. Sprinkle base of the pan with cornmeal to prevent bread from sticking. Place dough in pan and cover with the hot lid.
Bake for 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, remove lid and continue baking for another 15 to 25 minutes. The loaf will be light brown when it is ready and will sound hollow when tapped on the bottom.
Remove the bread from the pan and let cool on a wire rack for 1 hour before serving.
Steelhead en Papillote with Golden Raisin and Apple Compote
Chef Ned Bell, Chefs for Oceans and author of Lure Cookbook. Canada
“The future of seafood for me personally and for all of us at Chefs for Oceans is shellfish cultivation, mariculture with filter feeders, seaweeds, sea vegetables and responsible aquaculture. In my opinion these ways of growing food (through water farming) are among the best ways we we can continue to consume clean healthy protein for generations to come. The focus should be on nutrient-dense, plant-based ingredients as the main composition of a meal, garnished with sustainable seafood. This is mothers nature’s real fast food. “
Foolproof, elegantly impressive, and blessedly mess free, cooking en papillote is a busy cook’s get-out-of-jail-free card. With the exception of the densest fish species, such as sturgeon or lingcod, all fish take well to this cooking method, and it’s so easy to customize each diner’s little parchment-paper packet. Here, rich steelhead is simply flavored with a little butter, lemon, and herbs, and then served with a sweet-tart compote of apples and raisins. But you can change things up with different herbs or spices, and even thinly sliced or shaved vegetables that will cook with the fish right in the pouch.
Golden raisin and apple compote
2 cups golden raisins
2 cups apple juice
1/2 cup apple cider vinegar
1/4 cup honey
1 tsp sea salt
1 Granny Smith apple, unpeeled
Combine the raisins, apple juice, vinegar, honey, and salt in a medium saucepan, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 15 minutes or until raisins are plump and the liquid is reduced to one-quarter of the original volume. Remove the pan from the heat. Core the apple, then dice into pieces about the same size as the raisins. Stir the apples into the saucepan. Set aside to cool.
1/2 cup pine nuts, for garnish
4 (4 to 5 oz) steelhead steaks
Sea salt and coarsely ground black pepper
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley or chives
1 lemon, thinly sliced
Roasted root vegetables such as parsnips or celery root, to serve
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spread the pine nuts on a rimmed baking sheet and toast, stirring occasionally, for 5 to 10 minutes or until golden. Remove and set aside to cool. (Alternatively, you can toast them, stirring frequently, in a dry skillet over medium-low heat for 3 to 5 minutes.) Increase the oven temperature to 400°F. Fold 4 (18-inch-long) pieces of parchment paper in half. Place each fillet on one side of each paper. Season with salt and pepper. Dot each fillet with a tablespoon of butter, and sprinkle with a tablespoon of parsley (or chives). Set 1 or 2 lemon slices on top. Fold the paper over the salmon and double fold around all edges to completely seal the fish. Set parchment packets on a baking sheet and bake for 12 minutes or until the flesh is almost opaque all the way through and flakes easily.
To serve, transfer each pouch to a plate. Cut the tops of the pouches to open them up, and add a generous spoonful of the compote to each fillet. Garnish with the toasted pine nuts and serve with a side of root vegetables.
Excerpted from Lure by Ned Bell and Valerie Howes. Photographs by Kevin Clark. Copyright 2017 by Chefs for Oceans, recipes copyright by Ned Bell. Excerpted with permission from Figure 1 Publishing. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.